Lets get this properly started! Republic have been the lucky recipients of my first set of emails. Well, actually, to be completely honest I emailed them back in January as i first started to get the idea for this (and the blog only took 10 months to follow!). Those of you that know me will know that i'm not the biggest fan of shopping, i'll wear clothes until they are literally falling apart, i recently had to stop wearing a pair of shorts when the 5th hole emerged in them, they've still not quite made it to the bin yet…
I do, however, have a brilliant technique for shopping, you motivate yourself for one day per year, and you complete all your shopping in this one day! This one day came last January, and so i made plans to hit Southampton hard! However I couldn't forget the story of Shima I mentioned in the blog last time, and the knowledge that that was just one persons story, but there were many many more! I knew i'd probably regret what i was about to start, but i headed over to the internet, googled my favourite shops, and started to read their 'ethical policies', and started to question the retailers on what they've written. I was about to base the blog on these early emails and then expand on them with other shops, but I've decided to re-email places again, in the hope that they have more to tell from the last 10 months!
I do, however, have a brilliant technique for shopping, you motivate yourself for one day per year, and you complete all your shopping in this one day! This one day came last January, and so i made plans to hit Southampton hard! However I couldn't forget the story of Shima I mentioned in the blog last time, and the knowledge that that was just one persons story, but there were many many more! I knew i'd probably regret what i was about to start, but i headed over to the internet, googled my favourite shops, and started to read their 'ethical policies', and started to question the retailers on what they've written. I was about to base the blog on these early emails and then expand on them with other shops, but I've decided to re-email places again, in the hope that they have more to tell from the last 10 months!
Before i get into what sort of replies i got, I feel I should say that i never expected shops to really tell me open answers about all their practices, but I think that something in how they answer these questions will shed some light on how important these issues are to them, and how hard their working to improve their practices.
The ethical policy on Re
public's website is pretty brief, and so there were a few things i hoped they could expand on for me. One of my issues was with the fact that Republic state factories they use pay workers at least the minimum wage, or a wage that meets the local industry standards, whichever is higher. The problem is, often the minimum wage is actually not set at a place that allows workers to meet basic needs, such as food, healthcare, education and accommodation. And a wage set at 'local industry standards' is a very vague term, which again does not guarantee workers can meet basic needs. Republic claim also to meet all applicable laws in the countries they have factories, but again meeting the laws of these countries does not guarantee workers good conditions. They do however help countries attract big business' to open factories in their country!Republic is also not part of the ETI (Ethical Trading Institute - I'll look at this another time), they claim that there code of conduct is based on the ETI however. The ETI have their own set of policies that retailers that are members must abide by, such as workers being paid a living wage, a wage set above the minimum wage that is designed to allow workers to cover their basic needs.
I questioned republic on these issues, as well as asking how many factories they use pay workers over the minimum wage, how do republic decide what factories to use, how often the factories are visited and inspected by republic, what countries they have factories in, and why they were not a member of the ETI.
What did they say?
- They are confident they can support their aims without joining the ETI. Although gave no reason why they would/have not joined them.
- They said they have long standing relationships with their 'third party suppliers' and maintain 'regular' contact with them. Without specifying what regular meant.
However the most worrying thing for me was this;
'While we would discuss working practises we appreciate that our expertise is in retailing and not manufacture and would not be able to answer your specific questions.'
If, as the supplier, you don't know the answer to these questions than something is going wrong somewhere! I don't want to buy from a company that don't know enough about where their products came from.
Sorry to go down this age-old christian route of using dictionary definitions of words, but the fact that the shop chose the name Republic intrigued me.
'Republic - a state in which the supreme power rests in the body of citizens entitled to vote and is exercised by representatives chosen directly or indirectly by them.'
Ironic how the power in a republic rests in the body of citizens, and yet Republic seem to be unable to answer specific questions about their workers, or even seem to see it as that much of a priority.
A few more emails have been sent, but the only additional piece of information i got from them was that one of their shirts is made in China…..great!